The Republic of the Congo – Potential Realised
One of my abiding take-away’s from the recent time I spent in Congo (the Republic of and not the Democratic Republic of – more on this below) was the power and enormity of the Congo River. My first interaction with the river was from the gardens of the hotel in the bustling capital city of Brazzaville, where the river barrels past, loud, vast and relentless slicing between the Democratic Republic of Congo on the distant bank and the Republic of Congo (henceforth “Congo”) on “my” bank. Despite being the two closest capital cities on the planet Kinshasa and Brazzaville are made to feel very far apart by the deep rushing waters. I was equally struck by the river’s potential, and it was that oft espoused notion of Africa’s potential that I struggled to shrug off throughout my time in Congo. Reports vary on the Congo River’s capacity to generate electricity through hydroelectric power, with the higher number of 100 000MW often referenced, about a 1/3 of Africa’s electricity needs held by one river*. Accuracy of the above numbers aside, there is no denying that the mighty waters hold great potential, a potential that empires of old attempted to harness, and empires of today struggle for control of.
It is this struggle for access to resources in the heart of Congo and much of central Africa that places such strain on the wilderness and exemplifies why visiting here makes the trip more than just a holiday. A journey here really is an investment in the conservation of wilderness, for without the tendrils of tourism and the support of conservation entities such as African Parks, one fears that all wilderness would eventually be lost to the hunger of progress and exploitation. But wilderness does remain and wildlife within these wilderness areas is surviving, and it is in this survival that one should contextualise a visit to Congo. Don’t expect to luxuriate in views of gentle herds of calm elephant or plains game milling around on the vast open grasslands ala Serengeti or similar, rather get ready to revel in the thrill of a fleeting view of a fast disappearing Forest Buffalo or to freeze in awe as the shrill and distant call of a Chimpanzee breaks the silence of your forest walk. Get ready to get wet, to immerse yourself in every sense of the word and get ready to lose your heart, not to the darkness but to the light of potential and perseverance of Congo.
I journeyed to Congo with our partners Kamba Africa and explored their 3 camps in and around the Odzala-Kokoua National Park. From Ngaga Camp in the depths of the rainforest one can trek with expert guides and trackers to find one of the habituated family groups of Western Lowland Gorilla, a quite spectacular trekking and deeply intimate wildlife experience. Increasingly, the pressures of tourism numbers have ensured that to manage the tourist influx in places like Rwanda and Uganda, some of the intrigue can be lost in the busy start points of the treks, full of excited visitors anxious for their first view of our close cousins. In depths of the rainforest on the edge of the Odzala-Kokoua National Park, the start is from the Ngaga Lodge itself and could not be more different. Here a quiet walk just before dawn breaks takes one into the welcoming arms of the dark rainforest, directly from the main deck your morning’s trek begins. In our case it was not long at all before we were silently gathered deep in the Marantaceae groves, necks craning to catch glimpses of the family of Western Lowland Gorilla expertly found by the skilled tracker, quietly observing the primates slowly begin their day of foraging. A less seen and even less photographed dominant Silverback, Pluton graced us with his presence on this trek as he slid down a trunk a few meters from us and with a dismissive backward glance disappeared into the thicket. We remained glued to the spot as the rest of the family began to descend and melt away into the forest, playful youngsters chased into the thickets by wary adults. We were with the gorillas for an hour, but it felt like 5 minutes – a simply sensational wildlife experience. It is very hard to put into words the enormity of emotion one feels during these moments, with a thrill surging through one like the mighty Congo river itself. Whilst it might be the opportunity to see these rare and critically endangered animals in their natural habitat that initially draws one into the rainforests of Congo, it is with an appreciation for so much more that one leaves – Congo is bursting her banks with potential, the numbers are massive – even by my maths.
Over and above the rainforest experience, one can explore the gently meandering river channels that eventually combine to drive the mighty Congo River to the sea in a kayak or from a boat and discover the watery bai’s wading chest deep in silence and in awe.
Snazzy Sapeurs
A stopover in the very busy capital city of Brazzaville is an absolute must for those travelling to the Republic of Congo and it is a city that really does lend itself to exploration. Settle into your hotel and then take a stroll along the promenade towards the impressive Brazzaville-Kinshasa Bridge, a feat of engineering yet to see completion, but impressive none the less – not least for the lively activity in the surrounds as the Congolese pour onto the river’s edge street in the late afternoon. Save some time though for a trip into the city to find “La Sape” also known colloquially as “sapeurs”, a collection of dapper ladies and gentleman who have adopted the elegant European dress of the former colonisers. Expect a fashion show like no other as Congolese music blares, you are invited to sit back and relax with a local beer and enjoy the show. Take inspiration too from the locals and pick out some fabrics to have a tailored outfit prepared for you whilst you explore the rainforests – ready for your return home, la Sape style.
Two Congos…
A mistake often made is to confuse the two Congo’s, so herewith a few distinguishing features…
Democratic Republic of Congo or Congo Kinshasa
- A very large country, the 2nd largest country in Africa
- Capital city: Kinshasa
- Neighbours: Rwanda, Angola, Burundi, Central African Republic, Republic of the Congo, South Sudan, Tanzania, Uganda, and Zambia.
- Less politically stable
Republic of the Congo or Congo Brazzaville
- A much smaller country, the 27th largest country in Africa
- Capital city: Brazzaville
- Neighbours: Gabon, DRC, Cameroon, CAR and the curious Angolan enclave of Cabinda
- Politically stable and open for tourism
*Please note that the above referenced numbers are the author’s own calculations based on very basic napkin arithmetic and are in no way definitive, but merely illustrative.
